Earlier this year, I was fortunate enough to be invited by prestige champagne brand, Moët & Chandon, and particularly their grand cuvée, Dom Pérignon to spend an evening and a day (not enough—let me assure you!) at their family maison, Château de Saran. Located in Chouilly—a small town in the Champagne region, about an hour-and-a-half outside of Paris—the spectacular manor house is surrounded by sprawling vineyards in what can only be described as God’s country. Built in 1854, it has played host to some of the most interesting and varied guests over the past century-and-a-half: from the French Imperial Court to rock and roll royalty. And here I was, little old Agony Uncle from Montmatre-via-Melbourne being chauffer-driven to possibly one of the most special experiences I could ever hope to savour.

Upon arrival we were greeted by the delightful Maîtresse de la Maison, Mme Hélène Feltin who is the Château’s equivalent of Grace Farrell* in Annie, only far more charming—and that’s saying something! The most dutiful and pleasant team of porters took our luggage from the car to our rooms and we were shown into our respective rooms. Each of our suites was incredibly appointed and individually suited, as though they’d followed each us around for a fortnight to figure out that I like reading and handicraft.

The butler took my shirts for pressing, leaving me to strip down into the Egyptian cotton bathrobe and take a bath overlooking the vineyards. The bathrooms haven’t been neglected and are tastefully modern, but not incongruous with the rest of the décor. Parfums Christian Dior products are left out for guests—Eau Sauvage for the gentlemen and J’Adore for the ladies—as well as the standard trimmings expected of a five-star hotel.

Once dressed for the formal dinner, I joined my dearest ‘wife’, Miss Julia Fitzroy, who I have to thank for this incredible experience. She looked stunning as always in an aqua silk satin Temperley dress; and after an impromptu photo shoot we joined her parents, Mr and Mrs Rod Fitzroy on the terrace for amuse-bouches and our very first glass of Dom Pérignon Vintage 2000.

After soaking up some of the Epernayan air, we were shown to the formal dining room by two impeccably groomed waiters, who wore black tunics and matching gloves. The table was simple, yet elegant with the most fragrant of red roses and the most flattering of mood lighting. Life would look a whole lot different if it were enshrouded in such a quality of light!

What followed can only be described as an orgy of flavours—served family-style—as you will witness from the menu.

The menu:

Entrée

Lightly-seared seabass fillet topped with Beluga caviar, paired with Dom Pérignon Vintage 2000

Main

Roast spatchcock in a champignon reduction served with roast veggies and a beanaise sauce, paired with Dom Pérignon Œnothèque 1995

Cheese

Chèvre with walnut bread

Pudding

Rose water ice cream, paired with Dom Pérignon Rosé Vintage 1998

As you can see, it was one of the most amazing culinary experiences of my life, each course perfectly paired with the appropriate blend and vintage of Dom Pérignon. My personal favourite, Œnothèque has the most sophisticated palate—a complex blend of fruity scents and the most minute of bubbles akin to sherbet in one’s mouth.

As if the evening couldn’t be any more perfect, we were then offered more champagne and Cuban cigars; and then a gift from the ghost of Dom Pérignon: the best night of sleep ever.

The following morning I met with Julia for an early-morning stroll around the vineyards before meeting the rest of her family for a simple breakfast of pastries, tea, fresh cherries and the best hot chocolate known to man.

After packing begrudgingly, we said au revoir to the Château, Hélène and her team and climbed into our car and headed to Dom Pérignon’s abbey, originally built in 650 AD. We heard tales of the monk’s invention of champagne, his fierce commercial strategy and how the Queen Mother had stayed at Château de Saran, drank century-old champagne in her one hundredth year and said she much preferred a gin and tonic! After paying homage at Dom Pérignon’s grave, we were fortunate enough to be shown the original wine press and the hedge maze in the private section of the abbey—we were the one hundredth people of the 15,000 visitors to the site this year who were allowed to enter.

After shedding a tear out of sheer deference, our troupe was driven to the Moët & Chandon wine caves in Epernay—over eighteen kilometres of underground cellars! Over 600,000 bottles of champagne are turned by hand each day, which truly gives you an appreciation of the process (and the price) of a good drop.

Alas, all good things must come to an end, and after yet another glass of Dom Pérignon in the same salon favoured by Napoleon Bonaparte in his day, we bid farewell to the Champagne region and left for Paris. The experience was second-to-none and surely one I will never forget. I consider myself the luckiest man alive to have experienced such luxury and although a visit to the Château de Saran is by invitation only, I highly recommend the cave tour should you ever be in the region. I do believe that is the end. Merci.

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