We live in an era where the lines of what is appropriate attire have become particularly blurred as fashion often overrides good taste. Gone are the days when a guest would be refused entry to an event for not upholding the prescribed dress code; now they are welcomed with open arms with a bums-on-seats indifference. If someone can be admitted to an event wearing a dress made of meat or sans pants, something’s awry. I’m looking at you, Gags.

Recently I’ve attended a slew of events where the notion of black tie has become a dilution of what it should be—the eau de toilette of formalwear, as it were—and it’s time someone stepped in and wielded some common decency behind the cordon. Ladies and gentlemen, here is a brief rundown of how you can always be best dressed, no matter the occasion.

Black Tie

The most common of formal occasions, yet the one where so many get it so wrong, black tie is often referred on invitations as ‘dinner jacket’, ‘dress for dinner’ or in the United States, ‘tuxedo’.

Gentlemen

As with fashion, it’s open to interpretation, however, here is a list of the traditional requirements:

• Black dinner jacket with peaked silk satin lapels or a shawl collar with covered buttons. Typically the jacket is single-breasted, but a double-breasted jacket is also allowable as fashions change. This may also be substituted with a patterned or coloured silk dinner jacket with satin lapels.
• Black tapered-leg trousers with a single satin braid along the sides of each leg. Occasionally the braid is forgone if the jacket is of an intricate design or pattern.
• White piqué-textured (or marcella) evening shirt with a soft turn-down collar, worn with cufflinks and studs. Although some might wear a winged collar, it is traditionally reserved for white tie occasions.
• Hand-tied black bow tie (certainly not a necktie) is essential; preformed ties look ridiculous on grown men. If you don’t know how to tie one, come around and I’ll teach you!
• Highly polished or patent leather black lace-up derbies.
• Long black socks so that no leg is visible when seated.
• Although still worn today, cummerbunds, waistcoats and white silk scarves are no longer essential items in a black tie wardrobe.

Ladies

Ladies should wear an elegant cocktail dress in any colour—it doesn’t have to be black. It can be long or short as long as we can’t see what you had for breakfast.

White Tie

Reserved for the most formal of occasions, white tie is a rare event but should be embraced and not feared. When else are you going to have the opportunity to look a million dollars? On invitations it will read as ‘white tie’ or ‘full evening dress’, but if you’re invited to a formal evening wedding, a royal ceremony or a ball, you’d surely know that you’ll have to turn out something pretty special!

Gentlemen

White tie is traditionally comprised of:

• Black single-breasted tail coat with silk satin wingtip lapels, worn unbuttoned. Not to be confused with a morning coat, the front of the coat is short and falls just below the ribcage.
• Matching black trousers with double satin braid down each each leg.
• White piqué-textured shirt worn with a detachable wing collar, cufflinks and studs.
• A thin white hand-tied piqué-textured bow tie.
• White piqué-textured single or double-breasted evening waistcoat.
• Black patent leather lace-up derbies and long black silk socks.
• For winter events, a black overcoat and a white silk scarf may accompany the suit.
• A silk top hat was de rigeur in days gone by, but now the statement might be lost as it is only ever worn in transit.

Ladies

Ladies must wear a long ball gown and if they desire, a wrap or capelet when travelling to and from the event. In winter a fur coat is the best option over a overcoat, but when isn’t it? Evening gloves are lovely, but not essential.

Morning Dress

Morning dress (or formal day dress) is traditional wear for weddings and formal events that occur in the daytime, including horse racing and anything conducted in the presence of The Queen. Unlike an evening tailcoat, the morning coat’s edges curve into long tails at the rear.

Gentlemen

Gentlemen should adhere to the following rules:

• A grey morning coat should be worn with matching grey trousers. Black morning coats may be worn with grey and black striped or houndstooth trousers. One can opt for a single pleat or flat-front trousers, although the single pleat is more flattering a slimmer man.
• A waistcoat is worn, either in the traditional grey or in a coloured or patterned brocade. The single-breasted waistcoat is worn with the bottom button undone, the double-breasted fastened at all the buttons.
• A plain shirt with a turned down collar is worn traditionally in white, however, pale blue, pale pink and cream shirts are acceptable.
• A heavy silk tie or cravat is worn. Pastels are entirely acceptable; black and silver the traditional choices.
• A grey felt or black silk top hat is to be worn with morning dress. At weddings, hats are optional except for the groom and groomsmen. Depending on the dress code at certain events a hat might be compulsory, such as at Royal Ascot. Hats are always removed and held inside the church and in formal photographs.

Evening and Lounge Suit

As casual evening wear becomes more commonplace, the lounge suit has come into the fore as the choice of many hosts and hostesses. Many have different interpretations of the term (what the heck is semi-formal anyway?!) so it’s totally cool to ask for clarification.

Gentlemen

A normal business suit is allowed, worn with a shirt and tie, however, some might not expect guests to wear a tie, so it’s best to ask.

Ladies

Depending on the occasion and the time of day, women may opt to wear a cocktail dress or evening gown. Skirt or trouser suits are also permitted.

Smart Casual

The rule of thumb is, if you could make it from an event straight to dinner in a restaurant, then it’s okay. In other words, if you’re dressed casually and still look presentable, then you’re in the clear.

Gentlemen

A jacket or blazer is preferable worn with tailored trousers or chinos. Jeans are a no-no. Open-necked shirts are allowed, but a shirt and tie is also acceptable. Driving shoes, loafers or elegant causal shoes are best.

Ladies

A dress, or a skirt and blouse are perfect to look well turned out. Avoid wearing overly formal shoes and opt for something flattering and comfortable.

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